Rovaniemi Northern Lights Photography Small-Group Tour: Honest Review & Tips

I didn't expect it to feel like this

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The group consisted of six people: a couple from Munich, two Japanese women, and an Australian. Antero provided everyone with a camera, a Canon EOS 6D with a wide-angle lens. I had my own gear with me, but most of the group did not. He explained how to set the exposure time, how to find focus in the dark, practical tips that I did not all know myself. At 10:37 pm the lights appeared. Not the bright green from Instagram, but a pale, white-green band that slowly moved across the sky. Antero said: "Kp 2, weak activity. But the camera will capture it." He was right. The photos he sent two days later showed colors that my phone would never have captured.

Who should not book this tour: anyone who thinks the Northern Lights look like they do on Instagram. They do not. The naked eye often sees only a faint glow. The camera creates the magic. Anyone who cannot live with that should book a husky safari instead.

Product 1: The tour that saved my trip

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I booked the Rovaniemi Northern Lights Photography Small-Group Tour because I wanted an honest, small group, a maximum of 8 people, not a bus with 40 people. Antero took us to a spot he has known for years, off the road, by a frozen lake. The silence was deafening. No engine noise, no wind. Only the crack of the ice under our boots. He set up the tripod, adjusted the exposure, and let us take photos ourselves. The pictures he edited later were better than anything I have ever managed myself. The price of about 120 € per person felt fair, most tours cost 80 € but stay in the city. This one drove 80 km.

What struck me was that Antero did not just talk about the aurora, but also about Finnish culture. He told us how the Sámi used to interpret the lights as a sign from the ancestors, and why in Lapland you never whistle when the Northern Lights are dancing, it brings bad luck. Details like that make the difference between a tour and an experience.

The moments that made Lapland winter activities and tours worthwhile

After the photo tour, around midnight, Antero took us to a small wooden cabin that he had borrowed from a reindeer herder. There was hot lingonberry juice, which the Finns call "Puolukkahilloke," and homemade Korvapuusti, cinnamon rolls. The group sat together, the cameras lay on the table, and we talked about what we had seen. The Japanese woman said she had never seen so many stars. The Australian asked whether the lights were really green. Antero explained that oxygen glows green at 100 km altitude, and nitrogen glows red at 200 km altitude. It was like a small lecture, but without the academic tone.

The second moment was two days later, when I went on a husky safari near Ranua, a different experience, but just as intense. The dogs were Siberian Huskies, their fur steaming in the cold. The guide, Juhani, had had the dogs for 14 years. He said: "The dogs know if you are nervous. They feed off it." He was right. After 20 minutes of riding through the snowy forests, with only the sound of the runners on the snow, I understood why the Finns say: "Hiljaa on kaunista," silence is beautiful.

Who should not go on these tours: anyone who cannot handle cold. At -25 °C, unprotected skin freezes in under 30 minutes. Anyone wearing thin jackets will suffer. I recommend wool layers, merino wool is worth the money. Cotton holds moisture and freezes.

Product 2: A lesser-known tour worth discovering

Besides the photo tour, I also did a reindeer farm visit near Palojärvi, not a large operator, but a Sámi herder named Heikki. He has about 80 reindeer in a forest enclosure. No gift shop, no Santa hats, no line for photos. Heikki spoke Finnish slowly and deliberately, explaining how the calves are born in May, why the males shed their antlers in December, and why the clicking of reindeer feet is actually a tendon snapping over the bone, not a joint problem. He offered hot lingonberry juice in his kota (wooden hut) and said: "Most tourists book the wrong farm. They want Instagram, not reindeer."

The tour cost about 60 € per person, lasted 2 hours, and felt more authentic than anything I saw in Santa Claus Village. Anyone looking for the real Lapland should visit this farm, not the large operators on the main road.

What really surprised me

I was surprised how much the cold affects electronics. My phone, an iPhone 14, lost 40% battery in 20 minutes at -20 °C. I had a power bank with me, but it was not designed for such temperatures either. Antero had warned us: "Lithium-ion batteries drain extremely quickly in the cold. Keep your phone in an inside pocket, close to your body." I should have known that beforehand.

I was also surprised how many tourists wore the wrong clothing. On the photo tour I saw a woman from Spain in a thin down jacket and jeans. She was shivering after 10 minutes. Antero lent her a one-piece thermal suit, but she was still cold. I wore three layers: merino base layer, fleece jacket, and a thick hooded down jacket. Plus a wool hat, scarf, and mittens. That was exactly right.

Who should not go through this: anyone who thinks a winter holiday in Lapland is like a ski holiday in the Alps. It is colder, darker, and quieter. But that is exactly what makes it worthwhile.

Mia Ahola's insider tips for getting it right

• Book tours with "unlimited mileage." Reputable operators drive until they find clear sky, even if it takes 200 km. Cheap tours stay in the city and see nothing.
• Wear wool layers, not cotton. Merino wool is more expensive, but it keeps you warm even when it gets wet. Cotton freezes on the skin.
• Bring a power bank, but one suited for cold. Regular power banks fail at -20 °C. I have a 20,000 mAh one from Anker that works down to -30 °C.
• Do not eat in Santa Claus Village. The restaurants there are overpriced and the quality is mediocre. Take bus #8 into the center of Rovaniemi (20 minutes) and eat at "Nili," which serves traditional reindeer meat and fish soup.
• Book husky safaris in the morning, not the afternoon. In December there are only about 3 hours of daylight. Morning tours have better light. In the afternoon it is usually already dark.
• Check the cancellation terms. Reputable Northern Lights tour operators offer a 100% money-back guarantee if the lights do not appear. That is a sign of confidence.

What I wish I had known beforehand

I wish I had understood earlier that the Northern Lights often look disappointing to the naked eye. My first encounter with the Revontulet was at age 12, when my father woke me up at night and said: "Come, the lights are here." I saw a pale, white glow over the forest. It was only years later, when I used a camera with long exposure, that I saw the green and red colors. The tour helped me understand that, and the photos Antero took were better than anything I had ever seen.

I also wish I had discovered Heikki's reindeer farm sooner. Most of the tours I had booked before were commercial and felt like a tourist trap. Heikki's farm was the opposite: honest, calm, and educational. I will come back next year.

One last tip: do not underestimate how cold -25 °C really is. I have worn winter clothing for years, but when I once spent 10 minutes outside without gloves to adjust the camera, I had no feeling left in my fingertips after 5 minutes. Antero said: "In Lapland, the cold is not an enemy, but it does not forgive mistakes."

If you are reading this article and planning a trip to Rovaniemi: book the Northern Lights Photography Small-Group Tour, but go in with open expectations. The lights are there, but they do not always show themselves. And when they do, it is worth the cold.