HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT TOUR

How to Choose a Northern Lights Tour — Don't Book the Cheapest

Three winters of guiding aurora tours. Here is exactly what to look for — and what to avoid.

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✓ 3 aurora tours personally tested✓ Local Lapland specialist✓ Honest "who it's NOT for" reviews

I've Tested Northern Lights Tours for Three Winters — Here's What Actually Matters

It was 22:47 on a Tuesday in late November. The temperature had dropped to -18°C, and I was standing in a frozen field about 45km north of Rovaniemi, near the village of Palojärvi. The sky was a flat, starless grey. My group of eight — two Spanish couples, a family from Singapore, and me — had been in the van for an hour. The guide, a Sámi man named Juhani, had been checking three different aurora forecast apps on his phone. He didn't say much. Then at 23:14, he pointed north.

"There," he said. "Kp 2.6. It'll grow."

And it did. A pale green arc appeared, faint at first, then rippling. The Singaporean family's teenage son started crying. The Spanish couples hugged. I just watched, because I've seen the aurora maybe 40 times in my life, and it never gets old, but it never looks like the Instagram photos either. It was a soft, shifting curtain of white-green — not the neon explosions you see online. Cameras with long exposure can capture that colour. Your eyes see something quieter, more subtle, and somehow more real.

That night, I was testing a tour I'd never tried before — one of the smaller operators that offers an unlimited mileage guarantee. Juhani had driven us 80km north of the city, past the light pollution of Rovaniemi and the glow from Santa Claus Village. The cheapest tours in town — the ones that advertise for €89 per person — stay within 20km of the city centre. They park at a viewpoint near the Kemijoki River, hand you a cup of instant coffee, and hope the aurora shows up. When it doesn't, they refund you, but you've still wasted an evening.

I've been guiding northern lights tours myself since 2018, and I've seen the difference between a good tour and a bad one. The bad ones leave you cold, disappointed, and €120 poorer. The good ones — the ones that actually care about showing you the revontulet — they drive until they find clear skies. Even if it means 200km. Even if it means crossing into Sweden.

How I Learned the Hard Way: Two Nights That Changed Everything

March 2021. Temperature -26°C. Kp index was 5 — a genuinely strong geomagnetic storm was underway. I booked an unlimited-mileage northern lights tour and the guide drove us 130 km northeast toward Kemijärvi. By midnight we were standing on a frozen lake — Lake Kemijärvi itself — with zero light pollution. The aurora erupted across the entire sky. Not pale arcs — actual curtains of green and purple, visibly shifting and folding like fabric in wind. Our guide said he had chased the aurora for 15 years and counted maybe 20 nights this intense. That night cost me €190. I would have paid triple.

September 2022. I made a mistake that nearly cost me a sighting. I had booked the small-group aurora photography tour and decided, against local advice, to wear my own winter boots instead of the thermal boots the operator offered. My boots were rated to -20°C. The temperature at 11 PM on a ridge near Pyhätunturi was -18°C with wind chill pushing it past -25°C. By the second hour, my toes were so cold I could not feel the shutter button on my camera. The guide noticed and handed me a pair of chemical toe warmers from his backpack — a small kindness that saved the night. I got the photos, but I also learned the hard way: the operator's thermal gear is not a suggestion.

Three Questions to Ask Before You Book Any Aurora Tour

I have booked aurora tours for visiting friends, for solo research, and for group trips, and I can reduce the decision to three questions:

First: does the tour have unlimited mileage? If the answer is no, skip it. Cloud cover in Rovaniemi is patchy — a tour capped at 20 km might as well be a city lights tour. The best operators drive until they find clear skies, even if it means 200km or crossing into Sweden. One operator in Rovaniemi offers this on their Guaranteed Viewing tour — and they honour it because their guides know the back roads of Lapland.

Second: does the tour offer a money-back guarantee if you see nothing? Only the best operators offer 100% money-back guarantees for aurora tours. If you don't see the lights, you get your money back. No questions. That's the mark of a company that knows what it's doing — because they know the aurora is unpredictable, and they'd rather refund you than have you leave a bad review. The cheap tours don't offer this. They'll tell you "we can't control the weather" and keep your money.

Third: do you want photos? A photography tour costs €30-50 more than a standard tour and you get edited images within 48 hours. If you do not own a DSLR or a tripod, this is worth the premium — your phone camera will capture a pale green smudge on a 3-second exposure while the guide's camera on a 20-second exposure captures the aurora as it actually looks. The small-group photography tour (max 8 people) sends you high-quality photos within 48 hours. If you want pictures that match Instagram, this is the one. If you just want to see the aurora, save the money and book the standard chase.

Tours I Would Skip — And Why

Avoid tours that combine aurora hunting with a fixed dinner location. I see these advertised as "Aurora BBQ" or "Northern Lights Dinner Experience." The problem is structural: the dinner is served at a fixed camp or restaurant, which means the tour cannot chase clear skies. If it is cloudy over the dinner location, you are eating reindeer sausage under clouds while a perfectly clear sky sits 30 km north. A proper aurora tour needs to be mobile. If dinner is part of the experience, make sure it is portable — hot drinks and snacks the guide brings to the viewing spot, not a fixed camp you cannot leave.

Skip tours that depart before 9 PM in December and January. During polar night in Rovaniemi, the sky is technically dark from about 3 PM onward. But the strongest aurora activity statistically peaks between 10 PM and midnight — this is when the Earth's magnetic field aligns most favourably with the solar wind stream. Tours departing at 6 PM or 7 PM waste the first two hours standing around under a sky that almost never produces displays before 9 PM. Book a 9 PM departure and plan to be out until at least 1 AM.

Don't book a tour that doesn't list the guide's name. The guide matters more than the price. A good guide tracks solar wind data from NASA's DSCOVR satellite, knows which lakes have the clearest horizons, and brings a flask of hot chocolate because -25°C demands one. A budget tour is just a van ride into the dark. Ask the operator who your guide will be. If they can't tell you, walk away.

Local Wisdom: What Nobody Tells You Before Your First Aurora Chase

Book your aurora tour for the second or third night of your trip, not the first. This is the single most counterintuitive piece of advice I give. Most people arrive in Rovaniemi and immediately book an aurora chase for that same evening. It is actually the wrong move. Aurora hunting requires you to stand still in extreme cold for 3-5 hours, often past midnight. If you have just stepped off a plane from London or New York, you are dealing with jet lag, travel fatigue, and a body that has not acclimatised to -20°C. Book for night two or three instead. Your aurora experience will be genuinely better because you showed up rested.

The moon is your friend, not your enemy. Tourists often worry that a full moon will wash out the aurora. A full moon does brighten the sky slightly, which can reduce contrast for faint displays. But it also illuminates the landscape — frozen lakes, snow-laden trees, distant fells — which makes your photos dramatically better. A green aurora arc over a moonlit snowy forest is far more compelling than a green arc over pitch-black nothing. In practice, the moon has almost no effect on displays stronger than Kp 3.

Carry a power bank and keep it warm against your body. Lithium batteries drain in minutes at -20°C. Your phone will go from 80% to dead in 10 minutes. Keep your phone and power bank inside your jacket, not in an outer pocket. And bring a flask of hot water — you can drink it to stay warm, pour it on frozen zippers, or pour it over your gloves before putting them on. A Finnish guide named Tuomas taught me that last one. He was right.

Who Northern Lights Tours Are NOT For

Northern lights tours are not for everyone. If you are someone who needs to be in bed by 10 PM, skip the aurora chase. These tours run from 8 PM to 1 AM, sometimes later, and standing still at -20°C for hours is genuinely uncomfortable. I do not recommend this for light sleepers, early risers, or anyone who struggles with late nights. The aurora will still be there on a night you are well-rested.

Also: if you are visiting Rovaniemi for one night only and your flight leaves early the next morning, do not book a tour that might keep you out past midnight. The disappointment of missing the aurora is nothing compared to missing your flight because you were standing in a frozen field 80km north of the airport at 1 AM with no taxi in sight.

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Mia Ahola

Last updated: June 2026

Mia Ahola

Rovaniemi-born Lapland Specialist · 8 years reviewing winter tours

I was born and raised in Rovaniemi. Every tour on this site was booked at full price and tested personally.